Avignon: Our Gateway to Provence

Situated on the left bank of the Rhône River, Avignon is a historic city in Provence, southern France, renowned for its medieval architecture. In 1309, the papacy relocated from Rome to Avignon, where seven successive popes ruled over the next 68 years. During this period, the magnificent Palais des Papes was built as the papal residence and administrative center. Today, the Palais des Papes is one of Provence's most iconic landmarks and most visited attractions.

medieval kitchen's 18-meter (59-foot) pyramidal hood

The gardens of the Palais des Papes

We visited in early spring, so we missed the famous lavender fields, which peak from late June into July. Still, we were able to visit one of the places closely associated with Vincent van Gogh—a highlight I'll share in an upcoming post.

It was raining when we arrived at Avignon's train station, so we ducked into Marie Blachère for lunch while we waited it out. The bakery was so good that we returned several times during our four-day stay. It was a good thing we chose a hotel close to both the train station and downtown, making it easy to explore Avignon on foot.

Delicious ham and cheese on a baguette, almond tart and coffee

Our cozy stay, steps from the station and bakery

Walking to town one early morning

Another of Avignon’s most famous landmarks is the Pont Saint-Bénézet, also known as the Pont d’Avignon. Built in the 12th century, the bridge once crossed the Rhône River with 22 arches, but centuries of flooding left only four standing today. Made famous by the French song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon,” it remains a symbol of the city and offers beautiful views of the Rhône and Avignon’s medieval walls.

Pont d'Avignon

Looking at the Palais Des Papes from Pont d'Avignon

We had booked a day trip to Gordes and Roussillon, often described as two of the most beautiful villages in France. A few days before our trip, we received an email saying the tour had been canceled, and our payment was promptly refunded. With the rain we’d been having, we figured the steep, winding roads to those hilltop villages might have been challenging anyway.

We quickly switched to Plan B and booked a high-speed train to Arles. At the station, an earlier train was already delayed by two hours, leaving us unsure about ours. Rather than wait, we headed to the bus station. There was no bus to Arles, but one to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, another town linked to Van Gogh. As luck would have it, it was market day—a perfect unexpected detour.

An hour later, we were swept into the lively heart of the old town, where colorful market stalls spilled into the streets, overflowing with clothing, local crafts, fresh produce, cheeses, olives, spices, and fragrant lavender. It was the perfect place to wander, soaking up the festive atmosphere and authentic Provençal charm.

Asparagus

Artichokes, etc

Our final day in Avignon was spent wandering at a leisurely pace, following quiet canals, strolling alongside its remarkably preserved medieval walls, and soaking in the city's timeless charm one last time.

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