Mai Thai Wanderings

Situated on the left bank of the Rhône River, Avignon is a historic city in Provence, southern France, renowned for its medieval architecture. In 1309, the papacy relocated from Rome to Avignon, where seven successive popes ruled over the next 68 years. During this period, the magnificent Palais des Papes was built as the papal residence and administrative center. Today, the Palais des Papes is one of Provence's most iconic landmarks and most visited attractions.

medieval kitchen's 18-meter (59-foot) pyramidal hood

The gardens of the Palais des Papes

With its rich history, central location, and excellent rail connections, Avignon was an easy choice for our second stop in southern France. Coming from Montpellier, it was the perfect gateway to Provence and an ideal base for exploring the region's charming villages, historic towns, and scenic countryside.

We visited in early spring, missing Provence’s famous lavender fields, which typically peak from late June through July. Even so, the region had plenty to offer, including a visit to one of the places most closely associated with Vincent van Gogh—a highlight I’ll share in an upcoming post.

It was raining when we arrived at Avignon's train station, so we ducked into Marie Blachère for lunch while we waited it out. The bakery was so good that we returned several times during our four-day stay. Fortunately, our hotel was conveniently located near both the train station and downtown, making it easy to explore Avignon on foot.

Ham and cheese baguette, buttery almond tart and coffee. Yum!

Our cozy stay, steps from the station and bakery

Our walk to town one early morning

Another of Avignon’s most famous landmarks is the Pont Saint-Bénézet, also known as the Pont d’Avignon. Built in the 12th century, the bridge once crossed the Rhône River with 22 arches, but centuries of flooding left only four standing today. Made famous by the French song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon,” it remains a symbol of the city and offers beautiful views of the Rhône and Avignon’s medieval walls.

Pont d'Avignon

Looking at the Palais Des Papes from Pont d'Avignon

We had booked a day trip to Gordes and Roussillon, often described as two of the most beautiful villages in France. A few days before our trip, we received an email saying the tour had been canceled, and our payment was promptly refunded. With the rain we’d been having, we figured the steep, winding roads to those hilltop villages might have been challenging anyway.

We quickly switched to Plan B and booked a high-speed train to Arles, another city on our list. At the station, an earlier train was already delayed by two hours, so rather than risk waiting, we headed to the bus station instead. There was no bus to Arles, but one to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, another town linked to Van Gogh. As luck would have it, it was market day—a perfect unexpected detour.

An hour later, we were swept into the lively heart of the old town, where colorful market stalls spilled into the streets, overflowing with clothing, local crafts, fresh produce, cheeses, olives, spices, and fragrant lavender. It was the perfect place to wander, soaking up the festive atmosphere and authentic Provençal charm.

Asparagus

Artichokes, etc

Our final day in Avignon, France, was spent at a leisurely pace, exploring the city's peaceful canals, strolling alongside its remarkably preserved medieval walls, and soaking in the timeless beauty that makes this historic destination one of the highlights of Provence. From its charming streets to its centuries-old architecture, every corner offered a memorable glimpse into Avignon's rich heritage. It was the perfect way to end our visit before bidding this enchanting city a heartfelt au revoir.