Roadtrip from Taipei to Kaohsiung, Taiwan, part 1

After six blissful days savoring the food and soaking in the vibrant energy of Taipei, we began our journey south toward Kaohsiung. But instead of speeding down the highway, we took the scenic route — thanks to our cousins (Ta Ming, Wai Ming, and crew!) who rented a minivan for us and even joined us for the first leg of the adventure. What followed was a road trip filled with fresh mountain air, cultural discoveries, and delightful surprises.

Our first stop was Wulai, a charming hot springs town just an hour from the city—yet it felt a world away. The winding mountain roads, surrounded by lush greenery, made the drive itself a refreshing escape from urban life.

We made a stop at Neidong National Forest Recreation Area for a short and easy hike to see the waterfalls. Tucked within the forest, the paved trails led us to cascading falls surrounded by vibrant greenery. It was an unexpected highlight of the trip—a peaceful retreat and a welcome respite from the buzz of Taipei.

Neidong upper falls

After the hike, we stopped in Wulai’s old town, where a dramatic waterfall provided a scenic backdrop for lunch. The area has a strong presence of the Atayal people (泰雅族), one of Taiwan's indigenous communities, and we enjoyed local dishes at a nearby restaurant.

The highlight was the bamboo rice—we had to bang the thick bamboo tube hard enough to crack it open ourselves, revealing perfectly steamed, fragrant rice inside. Many of the vegetables were new to us, making the meal both delicious and eye-opening.

see those bamboo sticks of rice?

Wulai Waterfall

Wulai Old Street

Exotic mountain vegetable and fruits

After lunch, we hopped on a small train down the mountain, where our driver was waiting to whisk us away to Full Moon Spa Hotel for the night.

train ride down the mountain

Full Moon Spa (top left building with the red sign)

The hotel is a charming little spot right in town. There’s an elevator up to the lobby, but reaching the rooms requires walking down a set of steps—something to keep in mind for the elderly or anyone with limited mobility. The highlight, of course, was the enormous spa-like tub in our room, complete with a lovely view of the river. Filled with piping hot spring water, a long soak was the perfect antidote after a full day of exploring.

view of the mountain from the restaurant

A delicious hot pot seafood dinner was part of our room package

Unbeknownst to us, there was no heat in the room—and the temperature had dipped to a chilly 56°F  or 13.3°C. It was cold!

Around the same time, much of the southern U.S.—especially Nashville, TN — was battling a major ice storm and widespread power outages. All things considered, we’d much rather brave the cold in Wulai than the ice in Nashville.

Our next stop was in Taichung, but it'll have to be another post. Stay tuned.

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Postcard from Taipei, Taiwan

What an exhilarating welcome to Taipei! One of our hotel rooms even had a view of Taipei 101—and, unbelievably—Alex Honnold was free-solo climbing the very same tower, no ropes, no safety net (read the news here). Jet lag, however, got the better of us, and we slept through the entire spectacle. Not that we’re particularly eager to watch that kind of adrenaline-fueled madness anyway. We already had plans to visit Taipei 101 ourselves the very next day—preferably with solid ground beneath our feet.

Night view of Taipei 101 from one of our rooms

The ever-popular Din Tai Fung greeted us as we entered Taipei 101, its famously long line already in full force. Tempting—but we had another plan for those legendary soup dumplings. We skipped the wait and headed straight to the lower-level food court instead, and wow—what a spread.What was supposed to be a quick lunch turned into a full-on tasting tour of Taiwanese favorites: oyster omelet, braised pork, dumplings, soup, and an array of small sides with pickled vegetables and greens. Every bite hit the spot.

Afterward, we wandered upward to explore the mall. With each floor, the shops got fancier—Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Patek Philippe—and yes, even a Ladurée café. Just walking through it all felt like part of the experience.

Instead of the top-floor observatory, we decided to try desserts and coffee at Simple Kaffa Sola cafe on the 88th floor. Big mistake. The service was slow, the pastries were forgettable, and the coffee? Meh. Sure, an affogato (ice cream with espresso) is always a safe bet—but mashed sweet potatoes on toast? We’ll stick to a Ladurée macaron, thank you very much.

Pretty colors, but dessert?

So we came for the view. Earlier that morning, rain had swept through the city, leaving the windows streaked and damp. When a couple of tables near clearer panes finally opened up, we jumped at the chance to snap a few photos. Even under a blanket of clouds, the bird’s-eye view of Taipei was undeniably stunning.

The next day found us at Hangzhou Xiao Long Bao, finally indulging in the aforementioned soup dumplings and pan-fried dumplings. 

 

With Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall located just across the street, it was the perfect place to enjoy some fresh air and walk off some calories. 

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial

Chiang Kai Shek, former president of the Republic of China

From there, we hit Ximending—a hotspot for the younger crowd. It’s the place to see and be seen. When night falls, the city comes alive: neon lights, nonstop energy, and street food on every corner.

Long lines for Boba tea at Joyful

the city comes alive at night

Dining at a buffet-style vegetarian restaurant

Happy New Year (Year of the Horse)!

Year of the Horse

The last three shots were taken back at Taipei 101, where festive decorations were already up not only for the Lunar New Year—the Year of the Horse, starting February 17—but also for Valentine’s Day.

Full of flavors, sights, and nonstop walking—our Taiwan adventure isn’t slowing down. Next up: Kaohsiung!

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Japan: Tokyo Station, Shibuya and Meiji Jingu

Last month, our long-anticipated trip to Japan finally came to life. Of course, our luck had it that it coincided with the government shutdown, but thankfully, our flights went off without any delay. It was our first time flying United. While the flight itself was smooth with a friendly crew and plenty of entertainment, the food left much to be desired (a bit of a disappointment after 13 hours in the air from Chicago!).

When we finally landed in Tokyo, we were exhausted but eager to explore. 

Shibuya, regarded for its trendsetting culture and fashion

We reached our hotel around 7 p.m. and, after checking in, immediately wandered out to explore the neighborhood. We spotted a subway station and went in to buy subway passes, specifically, the SUICA passes, which you can use on subways, buses and trams in different cities and even at convenience stores like 7-Eleven. Easy, right? Yet somehow the six of us could not figure out those ticket machines (in English), even after asking the station attendant (whose English was minimal). We finally gave up.

The next morning, we took a short, leisurely walk to Tokyo Station. The serenity ended the moment we stepped inside. Tokyo Station is a massive maze of trains, shops, and restaurants, with a constant stream of people rushing in every direction. Navigating it was an adventure by itself.

Our first stop was JINS for eyeglasses (prescription included). We'd heard rave reviews about their friendly, efficient service, free eye exams, and glasses that cost half of what we’d pay in the U.S. And yep, all of it was true. We were in and out in an hour, with our new glasses ready for pickup two hours later.

Next up: getting those elusive SUICA passes. Apparently, there are subway stations and there are JR (Japan Rail) stations. Who knew the difference? You can only get the SUICA passes at a JR station, and Tokyo Station is one of them. Mystery solved. After securing our passes, we made our way to the legendary Ramen Street. 

Ramen Street, in the basement of Tokyo Station

Did we mention Tokyo Station is a zoo? Getting to Ramen Street was a challenge as we kept getting lost in the sea of stores and distractions.  When we finally found it, most restaurants had long lines snaking out the door. Hungry and tired, we opted for the one with the shortest line. And to our delight, it turned out to be one of our favorite meals in Japan—flavorful, perfectly balanced (not too salty), and surprisingly cheap!

Udon noodle soup and tempura over rice. Yum!

With our bellies happy, we headed back to JINS to pick up our glasses. Then we use our shiny new SUICA cards to take the subway. We were pretty impressed with how clean and efficient both the stations and the trains were—so organized, it felt almost futuristic.

If Tokyo Station wasn’t chaotic enough, welcome to Shibuya Crossing. It’s like Times Square, but more cramped, packed, and overwhelming. Even in the afternoon, the crowds were thick, and the neon signs added to the sensory overload. We snapped our obligatory photos (see first picture), then made a quick escape, leaving the madness to the other tourists.

A local friend took us on a leisurely stroll to Meiji Jingu Shrine, guiding us down a picturesque street lined with Ginkgo trees. The fall colors hadn’t quite reached their peak, but the bright yellow leaves of the Ginkgo trees made for a beautiful sight.

Walking past these pretty Gingko trees on a cloudy afternoon

Torri gate to the shrine

The walkway leading to Meiji Jingu Shrine is impressively wide and open, so even with the steady stream of locals and tourists, it never felt crowded. Instead, there was a calm, almost tranquil atmosphere as we strolled toward the shrine. As we passed through the main gate, we were greeted by a stunning display of chrysanthemums, apparently from an exhibition celebrating the Autumn Festival. It was the perfect blend of nature and culture, adding a special touch to our visit.

Main Hall, home to numerous Shinto rituals and prayers

As I mentioned in my previous post, we wrapped up our first day in Tokyo with a memorable 10-course meal at an izakaya in Daikanyama (代官山), a trendy neighborhood in Shibuya. Known for its boutique shops and artsy vibe, it’s often referred to as "the Brooklyn of Tokyo" (according to Wikipedia, at least). As we wandered through the area, we stumbled upon a charming little grocery store, where a vibrant display of persimmons and pears immediately caught our attention. We couldn’t resist—and left with over two dozen of these delicious, juicy fruits!

The meal at the izakaya was truly an experience. It kicked off with a light, comforting soup and then flowed into an array of fresh sashimi, grilled fish, juicy steak, and a mix of other mouthwatering dishes. From start to finish, it was a culinary journey we won’t soon forget!

Stay tuned for more as we continue to explore this vibrant city!

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