My brother is visiting Bangkok for the first time, and I recently shared this post with him to give him a taste of what to expect. Revisiting it brought back such great memories—we love Bangkok enough that we've decided to go again next year! This time, it'll be a shorter stay—just under two weeks—as part of a longer trip that also includes Malaysia and Australia. We’re getting excited already!
Originally posted: Apr 11, 2020
Sawadee Kha!
Did you know that Bangkok is the most visited city in the world? It even surpassed iconic destinations like Paris, London and New York City (which rank second, third, seventh, respectively), according to a Business Insider article. We had no idea! But we did know Bangkok is a hot spot for medical tourism and Thailand continues to be one of the top countries for retirement.
Our first trip to Thailand was way back in 2001, when we visited Bangkok and Phuket in the south. We came home with some truly unforgettable memories, and a lasting appreciation for the warmth, flavors, and vibrance of Thai culture.
Floating Market in action
The Grand Palace on a lovely sunny day (sharing on Skywatch Friday)
Phi Phi Island, south Thailand
This time we wanted to experience a taste of local life. We rented an Airbnb south of Bangkok for the month of December. It's a 15 minutes walk to Lumphini MRT (subway) station. Unfortunately, there is no sidewalk in the neighborhood. We learned real fast how to navigate the narrow and congested lanes. Admittedly Thai drivers are quite skilled; we did not witness any accident while there. Sure, we could take the taxi, but these taxi drivers always refused to turn on the meter, and we were sick and tired of haggling with them. Every Single Time. So we resorted to walking, and tried not to get killed, especially at night.
flower garlands adorn the Erawan Shrine at a busy intersection
Traffic jam at night (taken atop Baiyoke Hotel on the 84th floor)
Bangkok's river transport system is fascinating. Boats from barges to ferries and water taxis compete for space on the busy Chao Phraya River. The skilled captains and deckhands mesmerized us, and we rode the water taxi from one end of the river to the other, a total of 13 miles one way. For a mere 15 baht (US$.46)!
One major attraction along the river is ICONSIAM, the glitzy megamall that opened in November 2018. Bangkok is famous for shopping, and this is the latest gem in their shopping mall offerings. We are not into shopping, we go for the food. Most malls have food courts that are well run and cleaner than street vendors. Not to mention air conditioned. Our favorite food court was at the airport-inspired Terminal 21 mall. Located on the 5th floor (San Francisco terminal), it is decorated with San Francisco memorabilia, complete with a mini Golden Gate Bridge. We felt right at home here. Did we mention the restrooms are equipped with bidet toilets? Even San Francisco malls do not have that!
The colossal ICONSIAM mall is a kaleidoscope of colors, smells and sounds. As you amble inside, SookSiam, the indoor floating market charms you at once with its exotic décor and numerous vendors selling goods from Thai arts to clothing and jewelry. And lots of yummy food and fruits.
Floating market at ICONSIAM mall
Going to the movies has never been more glamorous! We enjoyed Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker in 3D. We discovered that you had to rise for the Royal Anthem in honor of His Majesty the King before the movie starts. The high tech theatre, the spaciousness and selection of seats or theatre (based on the price) all contributed to the amazing experience. There are free ferries to ICONSIAM from many piers; we took it from Ratchawong Pier, a short walk from Chinatown. The weeks before Christmas and New Years were especially chaotic; we waited for hours under the oppressive heat to get on the ferry. If you go during these times, come prepared with hat, sunscreen and sunglass.
We read that Thailand is home to the largest population of Chinese people outside of China. Interestingly, most of them seem more Thai than Chinese—many don’t even speak the language of their ancestors.
While in Bangkok, we dined at several restaurants, including Tang Jai Yoo—made even more famous by Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations episode featuring Thai chef McDang. Sadly, we found it overrated and overpriced.
Roast suckling pig at Tang Jai Yoo
On one walking tour, we ventured
into a covered alleyway (might have been Sampeng Lane) that is lined with shops
selling everything from fabrics to bric-a-brac, and oh my, how incredibly crowded! Motorbikes are allowed here, and when they come through,
be prepared to inhale some nasty smoggy air. Not recommended for people
with breathing problems.
the sight, smell and sound assault your senses at Yaowarat (Chinatown)
After ringing in the new year, we continued on to a couple of other Southeast Asian countries. But by mid-January, the news of the Coronavirus in Wuhan, China had taken a sharp turn for the worse. When the city of 11 million was locked down on January 23, it was clear this wasn’t just another regional health scare.
Worried about the virus’s rapid spread, we tried to move up our return flight—but the prices were absurd. So we stuck to our original plan and flew back to Bangkok to spend our final week in a hotel. The moment we landed, we bought masks. Just days later, they were sold out everywhere.
Tourist numbers and traffic had dropped noticeably. You can see it in the photos below.
now you see it (bustling traffic in Centralworld on Dec 18)
now you don't (picture taken Feb 1)
We spent most of the week laying low at our hotel and hanging out at Central Embassy, a nearby luxury mall that wasn’t too busy. The top floor was a great spot—it had a movie theater, some chill cafes, and Open House, an awesome bookstore with books in all kinds of languages and super comfy couches. There was even live music, which made the whole vibe even better.
musicians at left serenaded us at OpenHouse
Surfing and reading behind the books
The fourth floor is packed with restaurants. When we weren’t eating at our go-to spot, Din Tai Fung (yep, the international chain you’ll find in most big cities—usually with crazy wait times, but not here), we were down in the basement feasting at Eathai. After nearly a week of Pad Thai and duck noodle soup, we’re calling it: Eathai is hands down the best and classiest food court in Bangkok.
Found the best pad thai here!
Duck noodle soup (some people in our party lived on this all week!)
We’re so glad we made it home in early February! With social distancing and curfews now in place, we’ve been spending our time reading books and magazines, and doing a bit of virtual traveling online (check out some of my favorite links on the right side of the page). We’ll get through this—and when the time is right, we’ll travel again.
.JPG "Spring in Amsterdam, the Netherlands")
.JPG)